This is an account of our trip around the world,as a family, starting July 2008 for 10 months

30/06/2009

When Tremelody is Home, it's THE END

Tremelody has followed us back home ( she's been shipped from Buenos Aires and collected by Stephane's Dad who brought her back to Annecy : Merci Jean-Claude !).
As Thomas put it in Buenos Aires when we explained he would see Tremelody again in Annecy
" But then, I'll have 2 homes !" he said after poundering a while.
Our rooted home and our moving one are reunited and we feel good about it : when we go in Tremelody, it's like being in Latin America again !

The things we have missed from Home

Friends - 20th of June in Paris... Steph turns 40 !

... a proper meal ! prepared by Mr Marcaud... no way yo'll find something better ! 28th of June, the crepe lunch


family....simply unique !.. some of the cousins so happy to get back together on the 16th of MayPosted by Picasa

2 Home !


We really had 2 home coming : one in London and one in Annecy
The coming home feeling was in London. Except for Stephane who had escaped the bug in Agra, we were still sick and looked a bit yellow and stonned ! Thankfully Tim and Camilla rescued us. They were our London home and we can't thank them enough for that !
....
But the real home coming was in Annecy of course ! Brother, sisters, cousins
parents were all there to help us feel that this was going to be our new home.




"Mum, when are you going to bring me home ?" That's the question Thomas seems to ask us hours after the arrival in Grenoble ( not quite yet in Annecy !), as he builds his own home!


We still can't believe this is the last flight with 70 kg luggage (including a 20kg marble table from Agra. We have as much luggage as children in weight)... we are about to go through the arrival gate in Lyon...all the family is expecting just behind ( but, of course, I don't have pictures of the getting together... too busy hugging !). Thomas is really fed up !






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Dehli by 40 and the Taj Mahal

In New Dehli everything is huge : the city, the misery, the filth, the heat, the smell and the beauty too.
Luckily, we were there at a relatively calm period : the elections were taking place. At that time, everything seems to stop for a few days... the biggest democracy in the world needs some time to organize (6 million people are required) and digest ( organized on one week) the process, plus in some places, it gets violent.
We had to be careful about the heat which can get you because it's dryier. With 40 to 45 degrees in the middle of the day, the season was considered hotter than usual. In Agra, the town of the Taj Mahal, 3 hours of train south of Dehli, a jewlerer told us that the worst heat he' d seen was 47 degrees.
This is part of the red fort in Old Dehli
This north part of India was influenced by the Moghols, invading from the 15th century, from Afghanistan, then settling. They were muslim, thus arab-slyle architecture.

The red fort
AGRA

Welcoming you just before you enter the Taj mahal in Agra are the monkeys, dozens of them... beware not to hold any food, they are thieves !


At last the Taj. Isn't it a beauty ?
At 6:30 the temperature is perfect, so happy to be here!
It's hard to believe that this monument is not a palace but a Mausoleum built by a Maharajah deeply in love with his departed wife.
Hours after this picture, we were, for the fist time of our travels, sick ( with the food of the 4 star hotel that we had manage to get cheap during election week... can you believe it ?)
It was about time to time to fly back, which we did 3 days later !
THE END
... but more on our thoughts on this big adventure and the come back homePosted by Picasa

Tea in Makaibari

Darjeeling is surrounded by beautiful tea gardens. Makaibari, 2 hours from Darjeeling, is an an independant, middle size (still 250 hectars) fairtrade tea garden. We spent a day with Raja, its owner to show us around. A great caracter, Raja was one of the pioneers in fairtrade and has strong views about it. He is a man close to the ground with an advanced approach in natural fertilizers ( he got the organic label years ago) , a parternalistic approach in management and a deep spiritual life, in which he is very Indian. He is a real entrepreneur, with one idea a minute ! He has made Makaibarai a success, a real challenge when competing with huge companies with low prices.

a little steam train called the toy train runs from Darjeeling to New Jalaipuri where you take the train to Calcutta. Its train station signs look familiar....

It is 11:00. The tea workers head back with their tea leav crops in their baskets. Raja know them invidually. Most of these women are educated, the birth rate is low amongst them and their children are all going to school.

Raja and Stephan in the tea garden. This "middle size" estate is huge, comprising 17 villages. Only one third of the land is cultivated, the rest is left as jungle, which is part of the eco-composting that Raja has put in place since he inherited the land. Makaibari is the only tea garden which only ever had Indian owners.

We met with a tea buyer here to taste tea, test the quality and eventually buy it. Did you know that tea bulks were sold by auction ? He confirmed that Makaibari's tea are amongst the most expensive ones. But, even if you earn money, life is tough for tea people : jsut 3 weeks after we were there, the tea garden was struck by a tornado and a part of the estate was destroyed.

This is one striking image of Bihar, a state on the way to New Dehli.( a 36 hour journey from Darjeeling...)
Bihar is a very poor and dry area of India, bacward in many fields. There,women are oppressed : there are only 700 of them for 1000 men ( national average 900 for 1000 men) because a girl is considered a burden so women abort girls ( helped by illegal scans). Being a women in India is tough anyway, once you're married, there is no turning back, you "belong" to your in laws. You become the servant, and in the worst scenarios the slave of the house. Only 45 women in 100 are educated vs 75 in 100 men !
This woman here is carrying some cow dung discs for the fire. the little house at the back is a cow dung pile. Posted by Picasa

Seeking fresh air in Darjeeling

Travelling in train in India is a story in itself. Train stations have a life of their own. Poor families or abandonned children live here alongside rats. A hard sight ! (Thomas told me towards the end of our trip : Mum, I don't want to see these unbrushed, bear feet children anymore. ) People queue for ticket for ages and come well in advance : if they don't have a reserved seat, then the'll just have to fight for it. In a journey that can take days ( we did 36 hours from Darjeeling to New Dehli), a lot is at stake. On the picture below, the train is arriving, unannonced of course, and suddendly, it's panic. People run to the edge of the platform and huge queues form instantly, with women squashed between men and a lot of pushing.

This picture is the only one for which I almost got into trouble : the police overseeing the mass movement looked quite angry as they asked me to put my camera down. As Thomas was crying in front of 4 street children, amazed at the sight, and Stephane was away looking for some food we could take with us ( in fact, apart from crisps and biscuits, yo can't find much : our menu was made of plain rice served in the train as we can't eat the curry, far too hot for us) I put up my best "sorry" smile to avoid trouble.


We are delighted to find fresh air after a 20 hour journey. The night arrived late, so we could afford a spleep in, and we loved it. 4 more hours uphill in a jeep ( the road in bad) and we are in the Himmalayas ! The road doesn't go quite up to the hotel so we are helped with our luggages here, but why wouln't you roll them ? because the roads are full of holes and there are quite a few steps. These 2 sherpas are women.

Darjeeling is a built on the hills. It is a charming sights. Mountains here are so vasts, it's like the Alps blown up 10 times. Valleys are so gigantic you can hardly see the other side and mountain peaks disapear in the mist or the clouds. Here, although you are in the middle of the Himmalayas, you only see the high summits after the rain when the air has been completely washed. It is from here that the great expedition that first reached Mount Everest's summit in 1953 was prepared.

In Darjeeling, most people are Nepali people, the language spoken is Nepali. There also was a strong separatist movement who seeked independance of what they called "Gorka Land" in the 80's. It was violent at the time and the Gorkaland political party is still very strong here, which was obvious during the electoral week where we were.
On this pictures, however, we wear Tibetan hats, as Darjeeling is a refuge to many of them fleeing Chinese oppression, and let me tell you it is bad with hundreds of thousands of them killed, tortured or imprisonned over the last ten years.Posted by Picasa

Retrouvailles a Dubai

One of the greatest contrast we have experienced during this trip : from staying with street children, amongst the porrest in the planet to the greatest riches of Dubai, from the shabby Kolkota international airport to the most luxurious "all in marble" airport in the world.
We were a bit baffled, so much so, that Stephane started by mixing up the prayer room with the loos... fortunately, he was informed that he was in the prayer room seconds before the unthinkable could happen ! Poor Thomas had to wait a few more minutes !
We had the most amazing welcome by our dear friends Muriel, Guillaume and their four children, and enjoyed luxury to the last drop for a whole week.
We did a sporty outing in the sand dunes for 2 days; driving in the dunes with flat tyres ( you deflate them when you reach the sand) is a bit like driving in mellow butter. There a good chance you will get stuck the first time you drive, but don't worry, Guillaume has all the equipement, and is able to drive you in the middle of the dunes as if he'd done that all his life !
Unfortunately, Muriel is missing in the picture below : she was at work that day, which made us realaze there and then, that we had forgotten a bit what a working life was !

In front of the surreal Dubai skyline, on the palme tree polder land ( reclaimed from sea).
Last row from L to R Stephane, Caroline, Guilaume and Hughes. Front : Manon Gabrielle, Clothilde (hidding), Romane, Thomas and Alix.

Guess who are the 2 sarchophages ? A hint : 2 brave men who did not fear to find a scorpion in their shoes in the morning. True we were a bit short of space in the tents, but most of all, it's so much quieter to sleep witout the children !
In the morning, the children of the 8 families gathered on that spot started ( from 6:00, time of this picture, minutes later, with the noise, they were up!) sand sledging... by 9 it was too hot and we went.

Malborough dune is indeed steep. I did step out of the car and go by foot !


The real Dubai : so clean you could eat on the pavement, so film set-like, that you could think you are a bond or disney (depend which side of Dubai) caracter ! Posted by Picasa